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Naturopathica

Showing posts with label harvesting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label harvesting. Show all posts

Monday, July 16, 2012

Fennel Seeds Ripening

Photo: Fennel Seeds Ripening

The fennel seeds are ripening.  Hopefully, this time I can harvest a good amount of fennel seeds before the birds make a snack out of them.  I am going to use the seeds to flavor meats and possibly make fennel tea.

Friday, July 13, 2012

Chervil

Photo: Chervil Seedlings

My chervil plant produced a bunch of seeds.  I just stripped them right into this area in the garden, and now I have a whole bunch of chervil seedlings.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Harvesting Scallion or Green Onion Seeds


Photo: Last Season's Scallion Seeds Sprouting


Photo: Scallion or "Green Onion" Seed Head

Turn left over green onion stalks into a whole bed of scallions.  All you have to do is plant the unused scallions in the soil, and allow at least one stalk to thicken and flower.  The flower will eventually form seeds, which you will use to plant a new bed of green onions.  You can continue to take cuttings from the other scallions for cooking.  

You will know when the seeds are ready to be harvested when the stem of the plant turns yellow, and you may even see some of the black seeds ready to spill out.  

Cut the stem under the seed head during a dry time of the day.  To save the seeds all you need to do is shake the black seeds into a bag or shake the seeds directly into your garden bed.  The seeds should sprout within a week as long as you provide adequate water.  


Thursday, November 10, 2011

Pumpkin Update

Photo: Jack-o-Lantern from the Garden

I planted pumpkin seeds in July, but as you can see our pumpkin was not quite ready for carving.  My daughter and I decided to carve the pumpkin anyways.  We were inspired by the jack-o-lantern in the Bubble Guppies episode about Halloween.  We both bonded over the experience, and were happy with the final product.  Next year, I will try planting the seeds in June, and will use a lot more organic fertilizer.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Harvesting Marigold Seeds

Photo 1: Dried marigold flower head full of seeds

Photo 2: Dried orange petal fluff removed.  Base of plant is holding a bunch of marigold seeds.
 
Photo 3: Base of plant holding a few marigold seeds.

Photo 4: Bag full of marigold seeds

My marigolds are dying back in the garden and the stems have turned brown, which means it is time to harvest the marigold seeds.  Collecting marigold seeds will take very little time and effort, and you will end up with an abundant supply of marigold seeds.  Share them with friends or grow them next year from seed.    

Marigolds are easy to grow from seed, are pretty, drought-tolerant, and are very hardy plants.  I plant marigolds throughout the vegetable garden because the roots secrete a substance that kills nematodes.  The smell of marigolds also deter some pests that munch on other crops (e.g., whiteflies).     

How to Collect Marigold Seeds

Materials: 
  • Plastic snack bag or other seed container
  • Small rock or weight if using a plastic bag
  • Scissors
  • Bowl

Directions:
  1. Identify flower heads that have died back, and where 1 to 2 inches of the stem has turned brown.  See Photo 1.  Snip off these flowers (with the stems) and place them in a bowl.  
  2. Place a small rock or weight in your bag to keep it from flying away.
  3. Using your fingers, remove the "orange fluff" (i.e., the dry, brittle marigold flower petals) and discard them.  I throw the fluff right back into the garden.  See Photo 1 & 2.
  4. Several marigold seeds (i.e., black and tan slivers)  are in the base of the flower.  See Photo 2 & 3.  
  5. Remove the seeds and place them in the plastic bag.  Seal the bag when you are done.  If you used dried flower heads, then you should not have any condensation.  If you do notice condensation inside the bag, re-open the bag and allow the seeds to completely dry out before storing them.     



Wednesday, September 28, 2011

How To Tell When To Pick Carrots

Photo: Danver's Half Long Carrot

It is difficult to tell whether carrots are ready for picking by just looking at their leafy, green tops.  To avoid accidentally pulling up carrots prematurely, try this tip.  Pull the soil away from the base of the stem until you expose the top of the carrot root.  See Photo Above.  Generally, if the top of the carrot root is as thick as an adult carrot, it is ready to be harvested.   

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

When to Harvest Corn

Photo: This corn is ready for picking.  
The silk is dry and brown, and the kernels at the top of the corn have fully developed.

How can you tell when corn is ready to be picked?  I wait until the silk of the corn has dried up and turned brown. Then I take my fingers and feel around the tip of the corn.  The tip of the corn should feel full. If it is pointy, then you can wait longer.  If you are unsure, you can always peel back a bit of the husk to see if the kernels have fully developed to the top.  However, please be aware that when you peel back the husk you are also are risking opening your corn to pests so if at all possible avoid doing this. 

Once you have determined the corn is ready for picking, just grab the corn in your hand and twist it off the stalk.

Tip: Corn will start converting its sugars into starch as soon as it has been picked.  To capture the natural sweetness of the corn, have the grill ready to go before you pick your corn and then immediately grill your corn after picking it.  If you are growing sweet corn it is not necessary to immediately cook the corn.  Sweet corn converts its sugars into starch at a slower rate than other corn.

   

Saturday, July 30, 2011

More on Cilantro

Photo 1: Cilantro seed heads drying out

Photo 2: New cilantro plants sprouting from seed

There is an article in Sunset magazine that talks about a "better way" to grow cilantro.  The article explains how to grow and harvest cilantro in a way that will provide you a continuous supply of cilantro until the plant goes to seed.
Two square feet of cilantro is more than enough for our family of four.  By rotating the sections we harvested the cilantro from, we were able to have a continuous supply of cilantro for several weeks.  I do encourage you to plant your cilantro in the shade to keep it from going to seed so quickly.  However, if you are a fan of coriander or would like some cilantro seeds, allow your cilantro plant to flower and go to seed.  To learn more about harvesting your own cilantro seeds (also known as coriander), click here.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Using Light to Determine Seed Pod's Ripeness

Photo: The light is shining at this bok choy pod in a way that illuminates the round seeds inside.




Quick Tip: Hold up seed pods against the strong sunlight to tell if seeds have formed in the pod.  If pods are ripe, you should be able to see the seeds.   See Photo Above.

Monday, July 25, 2011

How to Harvest Spinach Seeds





Materials 
  • 5 gallon bucket or brown grocery paper bag  
  • Garden shears
  • Strainer with 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch holes
  • Large bowl to catch seeds as they fall
  • Seed container (e.g., envelopes, plastic snack bags, etc.)

Directions
  1. You will know when spinach plants are ready to form seeds when they shoot out a stalk that  produces flowers.  These blooms will disappear and seeds will form in its place.  See Photo 1.    
  2. You should collect the seeds when the plant is dry so avoid collecting them in the early morning or after they have been watered.  
  3. Use the garden shears to cut the spinach stalks off.  
  4. After you cut the stalks, place them in the bucket or paper bag upside down.  Allow the seeds to completely dry out in a cool, dry location.    
  5. After the stalks have dried and turned brown, start collecting the seeds.  See Photo 2.  Place the strainer over the bowl.  Then use your hand to strip the stalk of its seeds using one fluid motion.  See Photo 3.
  6. Remove the strainer.  You can repeat the straining process if you would like to remove more of the leaves.  
  7. Label the seed container with its name and date collected (if desired).  Then pour the seeds into your seed container.  Store seeds in a cool, dry location until you are ready to plant them in the garden.  See Photo 4    
Photo 1: Seeds forming on spinach.

Photo 2: The little balls on the dried spinach stem are seeds.

Photo 3: Seeds and dead leaves are stripped from the stem.

Photo 4: Spinach seeds in a plastic snack bag.

Drying Seed Pods from the Fence

Photo 1: Mustard greens seed pods hanging from fence

If you live in an area that has dry summers, you can dry seed pods from the fence.  All you have to do is gather the stalks into a bundle, and then tie them together with twine or strong string.  Then hang the bundle from the fence.  I just use another string to form a loop, attach it to the bundle, and then hang the loop over a single fence slat.  See Photo 1.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Drinking Straw Converted to Strawberry Huller

Did you know an ordinary straw can double as a strawberry huller?  Give it a try.  It actually works really well.  All you have to do is push a drinking straw starting from the tapered end of the strawberry so that it pushes out the pith, part of the cap and the green leaves.  See the images and directions below for more detail.  

 Photo 1: Starting at the tapered end of the strawberry, push the straw through the strawberry.


 Photo 2: As you are pushing, keep the straw centered so that the end of the straw comes out of the middle of the stem.   


 Photo 3: The straw has captured the pith, cap and stem.  Remove the stem from the straw and remove the straw from the strawberry.


 Photo 4: Some of the pith may remain in the straw.  That is fine.  When you are done hulling the strawberries, just rinse the straw under water and it will likely remove the remaining bits.  Also, as you are hulling strawberries, some of the pith will naturally be pushed out the other end.  


 Photo 5: I had half a Costco carton full of strawberries that I knew I would not finish before they go bad so I hulled the strawberries and placed them in a freezer bag to freeze.  I can use them later for breakfast smoothies.      

Sunday, July 3, 2011

How to Harvest Bok Choy Seeds

Photo 1: Bok choy plant forming seed pods

Photo 2: Sunlight is illuminating the bok choy seeds inside the pod.

Photo 3: Bok choy seed pods fully mature and brown.

Photo 4: Collecting seeds from bok choy plants

You probably have noticed that some of your plants have grown tall, flowered and formed seed pods.  Instead of cutting these plants down and chucking them in the trash or compost, harvest your seeds for your next planting.  It is easy to do, and saves you from buying more seeds.  I collected more seeds from one single bok choy plant, than what would come in an average seed packet.  I share my extra seeds with family and friends.    

How to Harvest Bok Choy Seeds

Materials: 
  • 5 gallon bucket or brown grocery paper bag  
  • Garden shears
  • Strainer with 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch holes
  • Large bowl to catch seeds as they fall
  • Seed container (e.g., envelopes, plastic snack bags, etc.)

Directions: 
  1. You will know when bok choy plants are ready to form seeds when the bok choy plants grow tall and produces flowers.  These blooms will disappear and seed pods will form in its place upon pollination.  
  2. You should collect the seeds when the plant is dry so avoid collecting them in the early morning or after they have been watered.  
  3. When some of the seed pods start to turn brown, use your garden shears to cut the plant at the base of its stalk.  Note: You can wait until the pods turn completely brown to skip the drying process (step 4), however, you risk some seed pods opening and releasing seeds into the garden.  See Photo 3.  You can also cut the stalk when the pods are still green, but do not cut them too early.  If you do, you risk ending up with little to no seeds.  I chose to harvest my seeds a little early because I have a small garden, and I am eager to reuse that garden space.  See Photo 1.  
  4. Tip: To find out whether your seed pods have seeds in them, hold them up against the sunlight.  Turn the pod so that the sun will hit the pod in a way that illuminates the contents inside.  If you see round seeds inside about (about 1/8" in diameter), you can cut the pods off for drying.  See Photo 2.   
  5. After you cut the stalks, place them in the bucket or paper bag upside down.  Allow the seeds to completely dry out in a cool, dry location.  
  6. You may notice that some of the seeds have already been released in the bucket or paper bag during the drying process.  This is a good sign.   Place the strainer over the large bowl.  Then take a seed pod and use your hands to split it in half lengthwise to release the seeds.  You may have to twist or rub the pods a little to work the seeds loose.  The small brown seeds will fall through the strainer into the bowl, but bigger pieces of debris will remain in the strainer.  After you break your last pod, dump the rest of the contents of the bucket or paper bag into the strainer to collect any remaining seeds.  See Photo 4.
  7. Remove the strainer.  Then pour the seeds into your seed container.  Label the seeds with its name and date collected.  Then store seeds in a cool, dry location until you are ready to plant them in the garden.    

Last Updated: July 25, 2011

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Danver Half Long Carrots

Photo: Danver's Half Long Carrots and Mixed Lettuce Leaf

I harvested a few Danver's half long carrots the other day.  They roasted beautifully in the oven next to the chicken, garlic and onions.  The carrots retained a lot of its flavor and texture throughout the roasting process.  

This is my first time planting carrots.  Having crumbly, garden soil and an automatic watering system makes it super easy to grow them.  I planted 16 carrot seeds per 1 square foot to maximize planting space.  I initially planted 2 square feet of carrots (i.e., 32 carrots) with the intention of reseeding 1 square foot at a time for a continuous supply of fresh carrots, but I am thinking about planting more.        

I chose Danver's half long carrots because I do not have a deep garden bed.  However, you can technically harvest carrots at anytime (i.e., from baby size to full length size).    


Sunday, September 12, 2010

Harvesting Sunflower Seeds


I harvested sunflower seeds from my garden today.  I knew the sunflowers were ready for picking because the flower petals were gone, the leaves were brown, and a few seeds were already loose.  I just cut the stem, and rubbed my thumb across the seeds to loosen them.  Most of the seeds fell out effortlessly.   For the stubborn seeds I used a spoon to work them out.  My thumb is not fond of splinters.  

I am going to save some seeds for planting next season, but I am going to roast the rest.  This will be my first time roasting sunflower seeds.  I am going to follow the instructions on the National Sunflower Association website.  

I really enjoyed growing these flowers.  The blooms are large and showy, they last a long time, and I get a nice treat from them at the end of the season!  

Monday, June 30, 2008

Harvesting Cilantro Seeds

I just harvested coriander from my cilantro plant. I was pleasantly surprised by the abundant supply of coriander my small cilantro plant produced. "Cilantro" is an annual herb. The tender aromatic leaves are often used in the last stages of Mexican and Asian cooking. "Coriander" is the cilantro seed and it is also used in cooking. For example, I use ground coriander to flavor my meats and stews. I plan on using the bulk of my cilantro seeds for culinary purposes, but I will save a few to grow some more cilantro.

How to Harvest Coriander:
Harvesting coriander is simple and effortless. Your cilantro plant will eventually produce tiny white flowers with lavender accents (See Figure B below).

Once these flowers are pollinated, they will produce seeds (i.e., coriander) in its place (See Figure C below). Small flowers normally do not need help pollinating. However, if you are growing cilantro indoors, you will want to gently shake the cilantro plant or place it in a windy area to assist pollination. This will help the plant produce higher yields of coriander.

It took two to three weeks for my cilantro seeds to fully mature. You will want to pick the cilantro seeds when they are ripe. Cilantro seeds are ripe when the seeds are just starting to turn brown (See Figure C). Snip off the stems of plant, and place it in a paper bag. Allow the seeds to dry in a cool, dark place. After the seeds have dried out, collect the seeds and store them in a glass jar or other airtight container until you are ready to use them.




Figure A
Young Cilantro Plant




Figure B
Blooming Cilantro Flowers




Figure C
The round balls are cilantro seeds a.k.a. coriander